The 17th arrondissement: posh, family-friendly, versatile

Let’s get to the good part tout de suite: The 17th is a spacious (three times the size of the 1st arrondissement), generally safe, relatively green arrondissement that attracts few tourists despite its charming neighborhoods, parks and architecture. It also unites neighborhoods that have very different flavors, yet all remain somehow bourgeois and posh (with the exception of Épinettes, which is more working-class).

Batignolles: The trendy soul of the 17th

While the southern and southwestern part between Ternes and Porte Maillot is mainly a business district, where many large companies have their headquarters, the area around the beautiful Parc Monceau is mainly residential, with well-heeled families living in impressive Haussmannian buildings. Both are about equally boring to visit – and while quiet and clean – to live in, we imagine.

Then there is the hyper-modern Martin Luther King neighborhood, surrounded by eco-friendly high-rises centered around the park of the same name. Right across the street, you’ll find the star of the neighborhood: the charismatic village of Batignolles. It’s a former industrial area that’s now one of the most sought-after real estate locations for young families and couples because it offers an enticing mix of that quaint village vibe and still has a lot going on, with regular outdoor organic markets and mom-and-pop shops, sunny yoga studios, excellent bistros, and hip cafes lining almost every street. 

Thanks to the fact that it has remained largely free of tourists, it’s a great place to get a glimpse into the daily lives of (better-off) Parisian millennials. If you want to blend in, grab a drink on one of the terraces on Place du Dr. Félix Lobligeois (a coffee or juice from the inclusive Café Joyeux, which employs people with disabilities, works as well), join the old men for a game of pétanque in front of the Square des Batignolles park, or browse the boutiques on Rue Legendre.

What to see in the 17th arrondissement

The most famous site is of course the Arc de Triomphe, which is officially located in the 8th arrondissement but borders the 17th arrondissement. But the 17ème is also home to many lesser-known gems, such as the Promenade Pereire, a green promenade dotted with works by Boris Lejeune, a French sculptor, poet and painter, which flows almost seamlessly into the remains of la Petite Ceinture, a former railroad that has been converted into a park.

Speaking of pretty walks, the Cité des Fleurs is a flowery real estate development served by a private road closed to public traffic. It’s made up of houses in a variety of architectural styles, each with its own flowers, and is open to the public from 7am to 7pm, Monday through Saturday, and from 7am to 1pm on Sundays and holidays.

Architecture buffs will also enjoy the new Palais de Justice, designed by Renzo Piano, while art lovers will value the Musée Jean-Jacques Henner, one of the city’s most underrated museums.

Find the best things to do in the 17th arrondissement and beyond

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